雲仙 半水寮 by 溫故知新

For our return visit to the area, we decided to try out Ryotei Hanzuiryo, the most famous and luxurious of the Unzen ryokans, and among the most renowned properties in the entire country. Hoping to snag one of the two Tokubetsu Shitsu (Special Rooms) with open-air bath, we called them 9 months prior to our planned visit (when booking online, they only start accepting reservations 8 months out.) For those of you wishing to stay in one of the Tokubetsu Shitsu rooms, they allow reservations a year in advance via phone. Due to its high prices (often over double the rate of Hoshino and Unzen Kyushu Hotel, both nearby), it does tend to have some decent availability if you plan even a few months ahead. Established in 1993, the "ryotei" in Ryotei Hanzuiryo stands for a place that serves high-end Japanese cuisine, which is not unlike the Auberge moniker attached to Western properties that offer gourmet dining. It really is the ryokan's claim to fame, and based on our dining experience here, it definitely lives up to its name. The 14-room property was recently acquired by Onko Chishin, the company behind Setouchi Retreat Aonagi, Iki Kairi Murakami, Goto Retreat Ray and Muni Kyoto, among others. While we were a tad concerned about the changing of the guard, we were relieved to learn the head chef was retained under the new ownership. In fact, just about everyone there were holdovers from the previous regime, with the exception of a handful of new hires that were brought in to handle communication in major foreign languages, including English. The 14-room property is nestled in a secluded area about 10 minutes away by foot from the central Unzen district (and the Unzen Hells.) The one drawback, however, is that this property is only offers in-room Onsen in the two special rooms due to regulations on the amount of Onsen the ryokan can draw from the main Onsen fields. From what I understand, the older properties in Unzen (Kyushu Hotel, Unzen Kanko Hotel, etc.) have first dibs on the hot springs and also make the rules. Hoshino Resorts KAI Unzen also has no restrictions since the rights were grandfathered in from the old establishment that existed on the grounds that Hoshino acquired. Although Ryotei Hanzuiryo does have a communal Onsen bath, for those wishing for in-room Onsen, the lack of them in the non-special rooms is a significant drawback. Whereas the more centrally-located Kyushu Hotel and KAI Unzen are modern buildings with contemporary decor, Ryotei Hanzuiryo is far more traditional - the buildings are sukiya style (a type of old-school Japanese structures) that beautifully blends into the lush surroundings, moss-laden gardens and Koi-infested ponds, giving it an incredibly peaceful vibe that is reminiscent of Takefue, Gosho Gekkoju and Wanosato. Inside, it's a mixture of Showa-era aesthetics mixed with traditional Japanese elements. Hanzuiryo's enormous guest rooms - even the standard accommodations offer 250m² of living space (here's looking at y